Floating down the Upper Missouri Wild and Scenic River as ominous black clouds gather overhead, our party finds itself racing against the impending storm. With paddles churning, we make a desperate dash for the nearest beach nestled among the iconic White Cliffs, just half a mile away. As we hit the shore in a dead heat with the first drops of rain, we swiftly set up our tents with record speed, seeking refuge from the impending deluge.

Inside our snug tents, we find ourselves enveloped by torrents of rain and the booming echoes of thunder reverberating around us. It's a spectacular display of nature's power as the storm unleashes its fury upon the Missouri River. Yet, despite the chaos outside, there's a sense of safety and camaraderie within our makeshift shelters.

In the stillness that follows the storm, a strange sound catches the attention of Craig and our friend Steve across the river. Intrigued, the rest of us listen intently as Craig identifies it as the telltale sign of a flash flood. His insight is confirmed the next morning as we canoe across the river and witness the outwash of mud below a small, steep-walled canyon.

This moment of discovery is just one of many that punctuate our journey down the Wild and Scenic Missouri River. From spotting hidden turrets on the cliffs to encountering wildlife like beavers and witnessing improvised sailing with a tarp and a tailwind, every day brings new experiences and revelations.

Setting out from Fort Benton, our adventure is marked by a sense of remoteness and self-reliance. With no guarantee of basic amenities like potable water at any of the launch points, we embrace the rugged beauty of the untouched wilderness. Even the most developed recreation areas are minimalistic, with only essential facilities like fire rings and vault toilets.

Despite the vastness of the river, encounters with fellow adventurers are surprisingly rare, with most days passing by with only a handful of encounters. While the central section from Coal Banks Landing to Judith River Landing sees more traffic, our fellow travelers are respectful and considerate.

As we watch bighorn sheep from our tents, witness the dawn illuminate the towering cliffs, and savor campfire meals with friends, the question of whether it's worth foregoing the comforts of home for a week on the river is easily answered with a resounding yes.

For those interested in embarking on their own Missouri River adventure, the Bureau of Land Management's Lewistown Field Office provides valuable information and regulations, including guidelines on packing out human waste. Additionally, travelers can explore outfitter options for guided trips along the river.